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ORTA...
A DREAM TO REMEMBER !
In
Orta San Giulio everything invites people to walk, cars cannot
enter the centre, from the large granite flight of steps which
goes down towards piazza Motta among two wings of frescoed sixteenth
century houses, the cobbled paving of the lanes which opens
into small quiet squares, the agile but austere Palace of the
Community, the antique shops, the delicatessen sellers with
their typical liver “mortadella”, the living meeting-places,
to the famous tree lined “sitting-room square” from
which one admires the magic island of San Giulio.
This is the ideal setting for good music festivals held in June
and in September.
The island can be reached by motor-boat or rowing-boat.
There are places, like the berth of Villa Bossi, where you can
really feel the verses of Guido Gozzano and understand where
Bonfantini and Calderara found their inspiration.
Noises are far away.
On the top of the Orta promontory there is the Holy Mount consisting
of twenty chapels in which are recreated some scenes from the
life of San Francesco d’Assisi.
Jasmine and wisteria climb up to the steep roofs made of dark
grey beola, a local slatelike stone.Laundry lines tangle with
honeysuckle, an enormous blue hydrangeas blossom in every corner.
The effect is so pretty and gay that you are convinced this
place is entchanted before you even reach the lake itself.
The French novelist Honorè de Balzac remembers passing
through the Orta Lake area and mentions it in a well known book
of his:
“Immagine a traveller, tired of the thousand gorgeous
aspects of Brazil, Italy and the Indies; on his journey home
he encounters a delightful lake, Orta, an island simple and
graceful, primitive and cosy, solitary and wellequipped, stretching
out on its quiet waters: grandeur and tumult are far away, proportions
are man-sized once more.”
Lake Orta really is a “man-sized lake” because,
as Mario Bonfantini, writer and one of the most esteemed Gallist
in the literary world, wrote:
it can “be embraced at a single glance”.
The famous French writer was just one of hundreds of enthusiastic
visitors who have been seduced by the lake’s sweetness,
richness of the vegetation and the intriguing little towns across
the water.
No photographs can prepare you for the island of San Giulio,
which gleams in the water like a fabolous jewel.
It is an intricate confection of narraw stone houses squeezed
between fine villas whith lacy wrought-iron gates and magnolias
blooming at the water’s edge.
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“Orta,
the Lord’s watercolour,
seems painted on silk,
with the Sacro Monte towering above it;
its noble promenade
flaked by close buildings
the silent piazza
and the austere façades
behind the foliage
of the horse-chestnuts,
and,
facing it,
the Isle of San Giulio,
resembling Dante’s airy purgatory,
hesitant Between water and the Heavens”
Piero
Chiara
"writer
of the lakes"
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